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Wednesday, February 6, 2019

Only A Surfer Knows The Feeling :: essays research papers

Only a Surfer Knows the emotionThere is a guy from Hawaii that I know. Every day, he wakes up, straps his surfboards to the racks on top of his car, drives his car from a town c all in alled Ewa, across the island of Oahu, to a little beach known as Ala Moana Beach Park. He does all of this even before the sun comes up. He spends a few proceedings just looking at the ocean, watching and surveying the draw ins and how they break. As before long as the sun makes its first peek over the horizon, he grabs a board, waxes it up, and jumps in the weewee. He indeed paddles his board through what many pile call a journey two hundred yards of dark nipping water, blistering currents, and waves advertizeing back against each stroke made to push forward. He makes this journey to get to a point right past tense where all the waves break, to a point called the line-up. Its here, where he waits for a wave that he catches back towards the shore, only(prenominal) to make the journey back through all the cold harsh currents and waves again. He catches a few waves, and and then catches one all the way back to shore, where he showers, gets dressed and then goes off to work.He has one of the most nerve-racking jobs I tramp think of. He is a counselor at one of the local anaesthetic shelters for teenage runaways. He deals with teen depression, suicidal tendencies, and coordinates bringing these kids back in concert with their families. And even though these tasks arent what most people would want to mother to put up with in their lives, he does it every day. Furthermore, as stressful as his job seems to be, this man is one of the mellowest guys that I know. When asked why he does this morning ritual every day, he said, surfing helps keep me cerebrate. And I believe him. Think about it for a moment, each snip a surfer goes to a beach, waxes up his board, and surveys the waves from the shore, he is preparing to go into the water to do something quite amazing. This pe rson is willing to test not only his limits, but also the limits of what the ocean can do to him. He wants to mesh the power of the entity that covers over seventy percent of the earth, manifested in the form of a wave, and ride it for all its worth.

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